Taikan-ten, or dining in Kyoto in November

At this time of year, my inbox is full of questions from people planning their trip to the upcoming Taikan-ten in November. The questions are mostly about importing bonsai, but I know a few of us have other overlapping interests!

Kyoto is full of great dining experiences, but before I get to a few of my favorites — stop what you're doing and book your visit to Saihōji (Kokedera)Temple HERE.  The timing of the Taiken-ten could not be better: the Japanese maples are exploding with color at this time of year in in this temple and moss-garden!

Kyoto ramen traces back to 1938, when Xu Yongcai (徐永彩), from Zhejiang Province, China, ran a ramen food stall near Kyoto Station with his wife.

Unlike Sapporo or Hakata, each famous for one signature style, Kyoto never standardized. And yet, among Kyoto's three better-known styles, one stands out for me: Tori-paitan (鶏白湯) ramen — cloudy chicken broth, basically the chicken counterpart to tonkotsu

While Ramen shops in Kyoto are free to use any chickens, some insist on using Kyo-jidori (京地どり) — a Shamo × Barred Plymouth Rock cross, prized for a firmer bite and deeper flavor, which especially shines in the context of yakitori.

Ramen Toritani (麺処 鶏谷) HERE was easily my personal favorite. Its signature is an assari mazesoba — chicken and marinated egg-yolk soy mixed noodles with chicken breast chashu, chicken soboro, and scallion.

...Pizzera Del poppolo (ピッツェリア デル ポポロ ア キョウト) is around the corner HERE if, like me, you’re up for a double-lunch because time is limited

Kirameki no Tori (キラメキノトリ) opened in 2013.  Today there are many locations, but THIS one is the original, and just short walk from our bonsai exhibition.  They offer three chicken-white-broth variations — salt, soy, and miso.  I may have tried all 3... and salt was mind blowing.

Finally Men-ya Takakura Nijo (麺や 高倉二条) is in Nakagyō Ward HERE, an area you're likely to end up/pass through if you're travelling in Kyoto.  Their chicken broth is fused with seafood umami.  It's so good it will back you do backflips.

On the other side of the Kamo River, in Gion, 2 experiences really stand out:

Noguchi Tsunagu (のぐち継 ) is located on the atmospheric Kiritōshi alley near Tatsumi Bridge HERE, with only 12 counter seats.  The head chef, Yoshida Daisuke, is from the Goto Islands in Nagasaki.  The restaurant focuses on very seasonal ingredients.

Above, Kobako-gani.  Below, their famous duck 'prosciutto'.

Gion Rohan (祇園ろはん) is a much more casual kappo spot HERE

Its calling card is a mackerel sandwich (鯖サンド)

but the entire menu is incredible!

This is a great spot to find Kobako-gani (香箱蟹), Chionoecetes opilio, the female snow crab, for a reasonable price.  Once again, Taikan-ten takes us to Kyoto during the perfect time of the year, just as the fishing season opens!

Below, a dish made from 7 mushrooms collected by the chef that morning in the Kyoto region.

If you planned well, Goichi Pizza (ゴイチピザ) HERE will be on your walk home.  It closes at 11pm ;)

Although Kyoto is not famous for its sushi, there a handful of excellent destinations.

Sushi Rakumi (鮨楽味) is one of them, in northern Gion HERE, right along the Shirakawa river.   Head chef Kazuya Nomura came up through Gion Sasaki Group and trained at Tokyo's Sushi Yoshitake, layering Edomae (Tokyo-style) sushi technique onto Kyoto kaiseki-dashi style.